Monday, July 19, 2010

Crisper than a Klausen's! Crisp Refreshing Homemade Fermented Kosher Dill "Half Sour" Pickles

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Last summer I totally fell in love with the idea of making my own pickles. Full of optimism, I bought 5 pounds of the most gorgeous Persian cucumbers, and spent hours slicing cukes, simmering vinegar, perfecting seasonings, canning and processing. And oh my, those pickles were gorgeous: they looked like jewels in their shining glass jars. We waited in anticipation for the jars to cool, the pickles to pickle, the spices to infuse, and when we opened the first jar, pulled out the first emerald spears, we closed our eyes, took a bite and...

mush.

Absolute mush.

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So soft and mushy that the pickles disintegrated in their pretty jars until they looked like jars of sad pea green soup. We threw them all away.

It was such a bitter and total epic FAIL, that I couldn't even blog about it. That's how disappointed I was (according to my husband, I do not deal well with disappointment or frustration. Go figure.) In typical fashion, I vowed that one day, I would indeed conquer the pickle, once and for all!

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That day is today. It turns out I did a few things wrong last year. First, I used the wrong kind of cucumbers. Slicing cucumbers, the sort of cukes usually found in big chain grocery stores, tend to be soft and watery, perfect for salads and cucumber sandwiches, but far too soft for pickles. Those Persian cucumbers were so soft and bendy I was doomed from the start. What you want are pickling cucumbers, which are crisp enough to stay crunchy for the long haul. Second, the brine/hot pack waterbath process also had me doomed, because the heat that sterilizes the brine also cooks the cucumbers, making them that much softer.

The secret to getting really crisp, really deliciously cool pickles is to skip the "quick-pickle" method and do it the old fashioned way: fermentation. This is the way pickles have traditionally been made throughout history, and they are incredibly delicious. And not only do they taste better than their shelf-stable vinegared cousins, but they are better for you. Fermented pickles are "pickled" by friendly lactic acid bacteria. This fermentation renders foods easier to digest, introduces "good" probiotic bacteria into the gut (much like yogurt or kefir), and lastly, offers an alkaline balance to acidic foods, like meat. Also, they taste better. What's not to love?

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"Half Sour" Kosher Dill Pickles
probably the hardest thing about this recipe is finding the right kind of cucumbers to pickle. This summer, I grew my own organic pickling cucumbers in my back yard, but you can also also find pickling cucumbers at farmer's markets and specialty stores. I think you can probably use Persian or kirby cucumbers in this recipe, but I can't guarantee how crisp the results will be.

It is VERY important that the brine is made exactly as the recipe indicates, with the exact same ratio of water to salt. Fermentation pickling works by allowing the lactic bacteria, naturally present on the surface of all vegetables, to flourish and ferment the cucumbers. The salt brine inhibits the growth of other bacteria, so it's important to be at the right strength. Too little salt, and bad bacteria may grow in your pickles. Too much salt, and the pickles are too salty to eat without soaking first.

This recipe is for "half sours," or pickles that are half-fermented and finished off with a splash of vinegar. They take about 2 days to ferment, give or take depending on the weather. You can flavor your pickles with whatever spices and herbs you like, through fresh dill and mustard seeds are traditional and a good place to start. Or you can get creative, adding minced fresh garlic, red pepper flakes, olives, red peppers, etc.

Ingredients
small firm cucumbers, such as pickling, kirby, or persian cucumbers
pure filtered water
kosher salt or sea salt (no iodine)
fresh dill
mustard seeds
optional: red pepper flakes, minced garlic, black pepper, etc.


1. Scrub cucumbers well, and cut of flower end, as it contains enzymes which can soften the cucumber. If desired, slice cucumbers into spears or slices. Rinse any herbs you will be using as well.

2. Pack cucumbers into a large food-grade crock or jar, leaving at least 1" of head space at the top. I have been making mine in large French style mason jars, but you can make them in almost anything. Pack cracks with sprigs of fresh dill and sprinkle with mustard seeds or other spices.

3. Make brine: mix together salt and water, with 1/4 cup salt to every 4 cups water. Mix together thoroughly, until brine is clear. Pour over packed cucumbers.

4. Cover pickles with a lid or cheesecloth, and let ferment. Depending on how warm or cool your home is, this process can take anywhere from 2 - 7 days. When small bubbles begin to form on the surface of the pickles and dill, you pickles are done. You can continue to let them ferment as long as you wish: they will not go bad, they will simply continue to intensify in acidic flavor. When your pickles are at the desired sourness, pour off the 1" of brine head space, and add a splash of vinegar. Store in the fridge, which will slow fermentation. Enjoy!

17 comments:

  1. How funny! I did pretty much exactly this method a few weeks ago, and I think our pickles look like brothers (sisters?). :) They are so good, aren't they? Did you get your method from David Lebovitz?

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  2. I am so happy that you posted this recipe! I will try it this week. :)

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  3. Yum. Will definitely try. Thanks for the inspiration!

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  4. Becks, I tried making these a few days ago. Yesterday they smelled pleasant. Today there were bubbles around the edges, but they smelled not quite so pleasant. Also, the brine turned cloudy, which I tend to associate with something going a bit bad. Did I do something wrong? Or are these actually still ok?

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  5. Emily - Yes! They are still ok. In fact, it's almost impossible for fermented pickles to "go bad," since the fermentation acts as a preservative. Back in the "olden days" before refrigeration, a barrel of pickles would be left out all summer to enjoy.

    It sounds like what probably happened to your pickles is that they went from "half-sour" to "full-sour." One of my batches (see first photo) did that too: It's just so darn hot here that fermentation happens very rapidly, sometimes in a matter of hours, not days. They will probably taste more tangy/sour than the pickles you are used to. Not a bad taste, just different :) Next time, try fermenting for less time - I left a batch for about 24 hours earlier this week, and they were wonderful.

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  6. Also, the cloudyness is just a byproduct of lactic fermentation happening. Far from being a sign that your pickles have gone bad, it means your pickles are ready!

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  7. How long do these pickles last, once they've been put in the fridge? We are trying to make pickles as Christmas gifts, and we are concerned that the fermented type will not last long enough.

    The person who gave us our fermented pickle recipe (which is very similar to yours, but without the dash of vinegar at the end) said that her family leaves them in the basement for up to a year, without refrigeration. She said they are delicious and don't go bad. We're worried that they will become too sour and/or be unsafe to eat. What do you think?

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  8. Thank you for posting this! This is the best recipe, and best information I have read so far. We just tried a different recipe using cloves of garlic, and fermenting for 4 days and ours were mushy and so so so sour. I was so sad, much like you after your first batch. My husband is quite excited with the mustard seeds, this makes much sense to him. Also, I thought I needed to bake them in the sun for 4 days, and I live in Texas, so I have a feeling that was wrong too. I guess its ok to just leave them in the windowsill, even with the air conditioning on? ;)
    Thanks again! Love your blog! Patrice

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  9. Woah - baking in the sun for 4 days in TEXAS? That sounds like a recipe for like... Canada :) I just left mine on the counter (I don't even think it was in the sun). Yours must have been super sour :)

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  10. One thing that really made a difference for me (cruchy-wise, as opposed to mushy) was using the right kind of cucumbers - I ended up growing my own, and they are super firm! If the cucumber is soft at all before you pickle it, it will just get softer after fermentation. Last summer I grew a kind called "endeavor" from Renee's Garden:
    http://www.reneesgarden.com/seeds/seeds-hm/vegCh.htm

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  11. Hi! Thanks for this recipe...just what I was looking for. :) I have a few quick questions so I hope you're still reading this. If I ferment these in a 1-gallon Ball jar with a cloth cover (my glass lid broke many moons ago), can I move them into smaller jars before going into the fridge? If I want to hot water bathe the jars after the pickles ferment on the counter, will that help preserve them longer? (Meaning no refrigeration until opened?) Will they lose their crispness if I hot water bathe the jars? Thanks a ton! Carey

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  12. I was over looking at your PHFR post and noticed this on the side bar. My husband is Jewish and has a real opinion on "good" pickles -- full sours! I finally figured out they were fermented and made a batch earlier this summer. He deemed them perfect! :-) And it's so easy, isn't?!

    We love HB and it is our go to beach spot (we drive over from Vegas)! You have a beautiful blog.

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  13. I made this recipe two days ago and the water has finally turned milky/cloudy but the pickles are not yet sour. They taste salty, not sour. When will they start tasting sour? I don't want to ferment them for too long.....a heat wave is going on and we have 90 degree weather for a week. I'm afraid they'll go bad.
    Thank you very much for posting recipes for your readers. You guys are under appreciated :-)

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  14. I have a friend that gave me a bunch of pickles that I love. I finished them soon and wanted to make my own so I just bought some pickles and put them into the same solution that the eaten pickles had been in. It has been a few days and all looks well, except when I tried one the other day their was a weird taste to them that was kind of tangy but not pleasant. There is also a bubbly foam on the top of the solution. I wonder if this is just the fermentation process but the specifics of what I did are this: I bought the pickles, sliced them up and cut off the ends. Then I put them into the old solution, closed the lid and put them into the pantry at room temperature. I never boiled them to create a seal. The top of the lid can still pop in and out if I press hard enough, but the fermenting inside keeps it pretty hard. I also never put the jar in the fridge because I liked them warm and I know that my friend does not keep them in the fridge. The solution itself is also older because my friend found the sealed pickled in her pantry, they were still good to eat, just extra zesty. So are these pickles safe to eat? Do they need more time to ferment? can I save them by boiling them as they are and creating a seal? Can I ever re-use the solution from a former batch of pickles and if so how? Please let me know if you don't have the answer to any of these questions also.

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  15. I've tried fermenting with Persian cucumbers as well as pickling cucumbers and much prefer the Persians. They were super super crispy. I used the smallest ones I can find. The only difference was that I added 1 to 2 T. of liquid whey. I also put it in a cool (no more than 70 degrees) place covered loosely with a dish towel. Also, place a weight like a small ceramic bowl so that everything is submerged. I had 1 piece peek out and it tasted funky.

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  16. Sea salt naturally contains large amounts of iodine. That is why your pickles arent pickling correctly. You must use kosher salt or pickling salt you can find at any groccery store.

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